This is one of our most frequently asked questions and it's worth saying that this is more complex than it may first appear.
Traditionally, Japan has excluded tattoos from baths because of their connection to yakuza, Japan's organized crime. This worked well in an era when only thugs would get tattoos, and Japanese in general remain cautious of tattoos even today. You'll see foreign tourists, Asian and non, sporting a variety of tattoos, everything from small ones in cute places to giant multicolored sleeves -- and none of it connects in any way to organized crime. It's a fad.
Unfortunately for foreign bath seekers, Japanese are rule-followers and if a sign says "No tattoos" they may indeed apply that equally to yakuza thugs as to selfie-taking tourists. And even if an establishment owner says, "Sure, go ahead," that may come back to haunt him or her when some long-time customer complains about the ugly tattooed foreigners when tattoos are not allowed.
The best thing is to be tattoo-free, but if you're reading this article, that ship has probably long sailed. So your options come down to what's practical:
1) Some onsens have decided to go with the flow, and actually advertise themselves as being "tattoos allowed." Not surprisingly, they tend to be the least authentic and often filled with tourists. But certainly, if you don't want to ruffle feathers, play it safe and seek these out. They're out there. And in many cases, they're convenient to tourist areas, the owners may speak English, and you may make other traveler friends while you're there.
2) If you have a small tattoo, you may be able to get away with either asking for permission or covering it up with a waterproof Band-Aid or such. Most onsen baths take less than an hour, so if your cute kitty tattoo on your arm can be hidden for an hour, that may be easiest.
3) If you have large tats that are impossible to hide and want the authentic bath in a place where tattoos are not allowed, you can still ask. Japanese generally want to please, and if you're nice about it rather than abrasive, they may just say "go ahead." If they do allow you to bathe and they get flack for it from customers, it's on them.
4) If they say no, ask if they have any "kashikiri buro (貸切風呂)." These are smaller, private baths that one reserves, usually for families or couples, so that you won't be sharing the bath with other people. In a higher-end hotel or ryokan these may be beautiful, some may even be outdoors, offering you a luxurious, peaceful soak that won't offend anyone.
5) Lastly, some onsens are designed with only families in mind. Called "Kazoku buros (家族風呂)," they have multiple private rooms, each with a bath and changing area, and many families prefer to use these rather than have their noisy kiddos splashing other patrons. Whether it's you alone, a couple, or a group of tattooed foreigners, if you ask around you may find a kazoku buro that will let you bathe without your tattoos bothering anyone.
Do you have a tattoo and an onsen experience to share? A recommended place where they didn't mind your sleeves or such? We'd love to hear about it! Let us know.
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